The AdBlue pump’s job is simple in theory.
It moves AdBlue from the tank, pressurises the line, and supplies the injector so the ECU can dose accurately.
If the pump cannot build pressure, cannot hold pressure, or cannot respond consistently, the system loses control.
That triggers warnings, limp mode in some cases, and sometimes a no-start countdown.

The problem is that the pump does not work alone.
The system also relies on:

• Heater circuit to stop freezing and reduce crystallisation risk.
• Level and quality sensing so the ECU trusts what’s in the tank.
• Injector and line condition so flow and spray pattern stay correct.
• NOx sensors so the ECU can confirm SCR efficiency.

If you keep getting warnings after topping up, also read:
AdBlue warning after top-up.

Start with the message you can see.
That tells you what the ECU thinks is happening.
The goal is not to guess the part.
The goal is to pick the right path.

These checks aim to separate four common causes:
pump failure, heater failure, injector restriction, and wiring.
You will not fix everything on the driveway.
You will stop yourself wasting money.

1. Check the AdBlue itself.
   Use sealed, in-date AdBlue.
   If you do not know what is in the tank, treat it as suspect.
   Old fluid, poor storage, and contamination can trigger “pump-like” warnings.
   If you need a full drain and refill path, use:
   Drain and refill procedure.
2. Listen for prime behaviour.
   On some vehicles you can hear or feel the system prime.
   If the pump is silent, it does not prove the pump is dead.
   It can also be power supply, relay, or wiring.
   Your next step is a scan and live data.
3. Look for crystallisation signs.
   Crystals can block the injector path and confuse the system.
   You may see white deposits around injector area or along pipes.
   This can cause poor dosing and trigger efficiency faults that look like pump issues.
   Use:
   AdBlue crystallisation symptoms.
4. Check for leaks and smell.
   AdBlue leaks leave white staining and a strong ammonia-like smell.
   A leak can drop pressure and trigger dosing faults.
   Use:
   AdBlue leak symptoms.
5. Check what happened right before the fault.
   Did the warning start straight after topping up?
   Did it appear after a cold snap?
   Did it happen after the van sat unused?
   Those details often separate heater issues from true pump failures.
   For winter patterns, use:
   Winter AdBlue problems.

If you have access to a scan tool, go straight to a full readout.
Don’t clear anything yet.

This is where most people get caught out.
Heater faults can look like pump faults because the system protects itself.
If AdBlue freezes or crystallises, the pump struggles and dosing becomes unstable.
The dash then blames “AdBlue system”.

If you want a direct comparison guide, use:
AdBlue pump fault vs heater fault.

A lot of “pump replacements” fail because the injector path stays restricted.
If dosing can’t happen correctly, the ECU won’t see the expected NOx reduction.
It then triggers SCR efficiency faults, and the cycle continues.

What restriction looks like in the real world

• AdBlue warning returns after a short drive.
• The van feels normal, but the message keeps coming back.
• Crystals show around the injector area.
• Codes appear in pairs, like quality plus efficiency.

Why it happens

• AdBlue dries and leaves deposits.
• Repeated short trips never stabilise temperatures.
• Refills introduce small contamination over time.
• Winter freezing pushes crystallisation.

If you’re seeing efficiency faults as well, use:
P207F vs P20EE
and
SCR system explained.

“Replace the pump” is the default when people are stuck.
Wiring faults can mimic pump failure because the pump simply won’t run, or it runs inconsistently.
This shows up as pressure errors, dosing errors, or heater faults.

Common patterns we see

• Fault appears after heavy rain, road spray, or corrosion season.
• It happens intermittently at first.
• Clearing faults buys a short window, then it returns.
• Live data shows dropouts or impossible sensor values.

If you have a scanner, your job is to look for plausibility.
A sensor reading that never moves is as suspicious as a reading that jumps wildly.
If power supply drops under load, you can chase the wrong part for weeks.

A reset is not a repair.
A reset is the final step once the system can pass its checks again.
If the cause is still present, the ECU will relearn the fault and restart the countdown.

Common reasons the reset does not hold

• The tank was topped up, but the level sensor still reads wrong.
• The pump primes, but cannot hold pressure under demand.
• The injector is restricted so dosing is inconsistent.
• NOx readings are implausible, so the ECU “fails” efficiency checks.
• Crystallisation remains and keeps building.

If your issue started after a refill, these two help:
AdBlue countdown after refill
and
AdBlue warning after top-up.

Here’s the simple rule.
If you are in a countdown, or the vehicle is needed for work, do not gamble on parts.
Get the fault confirmed and cleared properly.

Book a visit if any of these are true

• You have “no start in X miles” and it’s dropping daily.
• You topped up and the warning returned within one drive.
• You cleared codes and the warning returned straight away.
• The vehicle has already had parts fitted and nothing changed.
• You need it fixed at your location to avoid downtime.

If you also want a broader overview of what SCR is doing in the background, use:
SCR system explained.

If you’re searching “AdBlue pump near me” because you need a quick fix, we can come to you.
We cover Stoke-on-Trent, Staffordshire, and nearby areas.
Most jobs can be diagnosed and resolved on the same visit.